
After 975 kms, 12 Days, 2 Countries, 1 Bike, 0 flat tires and countless Bier Gardens we arrived in Vienna, Austria shortly after 2:00pm on Thursday afternoon.
We completed a multi-country tour and truly experienced German and Austrian culture at its best. I would never have been able to complete the journey without the company and support of one of my oldest friends growing up in Sudbury, Chris Meyer (who has called Switzerland home for the past six years). His enthusiasm, determination and proficiency with the German language helped me complete this trip.
Chris has his own blog and has detailed information of our route map which is quite neat
http://blog.schwiiz.org/ and also more pictures at
http://photos.schwiiz.org/index.php?folder=/2007/200706-DonauBikeTour/I've uploaded some pictures of my own here:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/erik.forrester/DonauBikeTour I thought I would share a few stories along our journey.
Passau, Germany - A Hobo's Adventure!As we entered the city of Passau, our last night in Germany before crossing into Austria, Chris noticed a billboard for the RotoHotel ("Rooms for 20 Euros!"). I said just by looking at the ad that this didn't look like a good place to stay. I mentioned that they couldn't even get good looking people for their promotional photos. Besides, it was on the outskirts of town and I didn't see a Bier Garden nearby. Chris, perhaps frustrated with the lack of my open-mindendess, suggested we check the place out.
As we approached the hotel, an older cyclist - who could have passed as a hobo were it not for his bike and gear - was walking out of the place turning up his nose and shaking his head. A few words were exchanged in German between Chris and the older gentleman. Chris looked at me and said: "Ok, fine, we're leaving." At this point in the evening, Chris' accommodation selection privileges were immediately revoked.
We quickly biked into the centre of town and checked ourselves into a really nice hotel across from a Bier Garden - which happened to be a 4 star hotel and we received 30% off the regular rate!
Before anyone calls me a "flash packer" (definition: an individual who shows a back pack but stays in hotels rather than hostels or other establishments where you would never walk barefoot in the communal shower) - we both agreed prior to the start of the trip that we would stay in a variety of places - from camping, to local "Gasthaus", hostels and even four star hotels (budget permitting, of course).
As most of you know, cycling isn't something I generally do. In fact, I hadn't been on a bike since the previous summer. The bike I had was a rental (with some funky fenders!), the bike bags I had were not water proof and my sense of "cycling fashion" was not typical.
Because I didn't have any waterproof cycling bags, all of my gear was placed in a garbage bag prior to placing it in the cycling bag. It also proved to be easier to carry my clothes in and out every night. When we checked into our 4 star hotel, you can imagine the hotel staff's and guests surprise when I walk in looking quite dishevelled with 3 garbage bags - trust me, I didn't care and kept smiling.
When we left the following morning, there was a bit of rain - so I needed to put on some rain gear. The pants I had weren't cycling pants per se, so I needed to improvise to ensure that my pant legs didn't interfere with the gears on the bike. I decided to place some string around my legs in order to make the pants less "puffy". Now picture me walking out of the hotel, with my garbage bags, string tied around my legs and over a weeks worth of growth on my face!! Oh, and at the all you can eat buffet, I stored about a dozen "mini Nutella packs" in my pants - so I was making a bit of noise with each step I took. Class all the way!
The following day, we crossed over into Austria. Sadly, there was no Um pa Band playing us off as we left Germany. The Austrian landscape provided a welcome change of scenery. Over the past few days, we've been traveling through several farmers fields and lots of flat land. The Austrian landscape was much more lush with trees and larger hills and mountains. Still following the Danube river, the views around every turn were breathtaking.
Ybbs - The town name with no vowels and wacky people!I think one of the best things about this trip was stepping outside of the traditional hubs that most people visit - which more often than not are influenced by the "tourist factor" - rather than offering a certain authenticity the the country's culture and people - which I think small towns offer (not to mention many of them look like something you would see out of a James Bond movie!). No where else on this trip was it more evident then in the town of Ybss.
After our day of cycling, I decided it was time for a hair cut (the growth on my face would remain until the end). Although the hairdresser was uncomfortable cutting my hair so short, I reassured her the worst that can happen is that it will take a bit longer to grow back. 2mm on the sides and 4mm on the top - I actually wish I cut it shorter!
After the hairdresser and I debated shaving attachments, I met Chris on a patio where after a few beverages the table of three ladies (read: cougars) next to us started to chat us up. Generally, when people hear us speak English, they assume we are American - we correct them - and generally they want to know more about our trip. When Chris asked why three women from Vienna were in a small town for the next 8 weeks, the response was quite simple: "We are staying at the hospital to get cured".
I soon realized that none of them were drinking, however they were smoking about 12 packs of cigarettes between the three of them - so the lung cancer treatment theory went out the window - and a substance abuse problem was more likely. We promptly asked no further questions.
For dinner, Italian was on the menu and at this point in the trip, no English subtitles on any menus was really starting to get to me as the only German words I recognized were Brot (bread), Suppen (soup), Bier, Schnitzel and Bratwurst. Other than the Bier, all other items are starting to become tiersome. Chris, knowing my dietary "issues", knew not to bother translating 75% of the menu.
A regular pre-dinner conversation would go like this:
Erik pointing to something on the menu "What's this?".
Chris' reply wasn't a description of the item rather a simple "You wouldn't like it!".
After an excellent meal, we headed down to the local pub where we immediately met the local "town drunk" Pete who introduced us to his band of merry men - one of whom I was sure going to loose his dentures in his drink. "Denture Guy" was a dead ringer for "Fire Marshall Bill" - Jim Carrey's character on In Living Color.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8g_arzPICEAOnce the group found out we were from Canada, we were introduced to an ex-pat Canadian. She was in her late 50's and split her time between her home in Austria and Spain. She had taught at the University of Toronto (OISE) and knew my mom's friends - what a small world!
She later introduced us to her friends, the town Doctor (who ironically smoked) and shared numerous stories - and also confirmed my theory about our 3 lady friends from earlier in the evening. Finally, the local town councillor joined us for a drink and bought everyone a round. Our evening in Ybbs was one of the better nights on the trip. As for the morning, it may have been one of my worst!!
The Ottensheim Camping Adventure!Over 10 nights during our trip, we spent 3 nights camping at various sites along the route. Not only did we save money, but it provided a different experience. Some sites we roughed it a bit more than others.
But our stay at a "camp site" in Ottenshieim proved to be the most interesting. We couldn't go wrong with the rate - 5 Euros per person! Our site, in the middle of a farmer's field.
Once we set up camp, shortly before 6pm, I told Chris that I would head back to the "convenience store" we passed along the way and I'd pick up some items for dinner. One thing I've noticed about some parts of Europe, keeping stores open as late and often as possible isn't a top priority. Store owners feel their customers should work around their hours of operation. It would appear that the town's local grocery/convenience store closes promptly at 6pm - there were NO other stores open. I returned to the campsite and informed Chris that we had to find alternative eating arrangements. Fortunately, there was (surprise) a Bier Garden close by.
When we returned from our dinner around 9:30pm, we noticed the skies out in the distance were rather dark and were giving us quite the lightning show. We weren't sure if we were going to get dumped on. At this point, the idea of setting up a tent at the base of a big tree didn't see like one of our most brilliant ideas of our trip. Chris being the "math guy" pointed out that this tree had been sitting there for more than 100 years, and if lighting were to strike and the tree falling directly on the tent would make us the most un-lukiest people. "Statistically improbable". Besides, moving the tent in the darkness and leaving it unprotected from the elements seemed "worth the risk" at the time. When we woke up the next morning, we realized that the storm passed us completely leaving our consecutive days of rainless mornings in tact!
In Ottensheim, I initially wanted to stay at the Schwartzen Gasthaus - as my friend Jay's grandmother was a Schwartzen - however they didn't know "Grandma Schwartzen" and they had no rooms at the inn. Sorry Jay!
Krems and their Tempting Bread Buns!One of my "new favourite" soups is Goulash - I now feel that paprika is an under rated and under used spice. (Incidentally, the Paprika Chips here are fantastic!) Both Chris and I ordered the soup as an appetizer which came with a bread bun. Once we were served our soup, a basket with 3 buns was placed on our table.
I finished one bun and Chris ate one with his soup and ate the 3rd one while waiting for the main course. When the bill arrived, there was an 0.80 Euro charge for 1 bun. Chris pointed out to the waiter that the buns were included with the soup. It was explained that indeed 1 bun for each soup was included with the meal, however the 3rd bun was not - and because we ate the bun - we were then charged for the 3rd bun. I kid you not!
Some choice words were exchanged on my part, however Chris calmly explained to me that at some restaurants, this is common practice. The "bread incident" became a running joke for the rest of the tour!
Munich and the Haufbrauhaus!I know that I mention Bier Gardens quite frequently (not only do their serve beer, but you also get a tasty meal - generally great Schnitzel) and you would assume that we had enough of Beir Gardens. However, in order to break up the 7 hour journey back to Switzerland from Vienna - we decided to spend a day in Munich and visit the classic (if not touristy) Haufbrauhaus. The beer comes in many sizes, however my preference is the 1 litre "mug" - where a gold coloured beer meets a frothy top.
This was my third visit to the establishment and the evening did not disappoint. We met a couple of guys who were on a four day leave from the US Army, some Swedish sisters (no, not beer drinking nuns, the related kind) and if Mick Jagger, Keith Richards and Harrison Ford's DNA were ever combined - you'd get our waiter! (see photos).
The Army guys from Chicago and huge Cubs fan - I mentioned our trip to New York and Boston back in April and they suggested Chicago next year. They also had one of the best lines of the evening regarding watching games online: "I hate living 6 hours into the future!". Classic.
After several beers, Chris and I made our way out of the Haus that Bier built and decided that everyone's favourite Scottish family restaurant (McDonalds!) was a great idea. I know Chris thought so as he polished off 4 Cheeseburgers and 1 Big Mac compared to my "Royale with Cheese" and a Happy Meal (with a toy!).
I also found an Italian barber and I am now sporting once again a clean shaven look.
Today, we returned to St. Gallen where we spent the rest of the day relaxing and doing laundry.
The Adventure Continues...After all the excitement, you'd think we were done - but no - a busy couple of weeks ahead. There is an annual Jazz Festival in St. Gallen on Tuesday which apparently is one of the best festivals of the year, it's Chris' birthday on Wednesday and he's having a BBQ and on Thursday we plan on making final preparations ... for another bike tour!
For Chris, it's the 4th Annual "Tour de Schwiiz" - this year it's a north to south crossing of Switzerland from Basel (at the France/German border) to Lugano/Chiaso (near the Italian border) right through the Swiss Alps. Although only a 1/3 of the distance of this past trip at 365 kms, the altitude and various mountains to climb will prove to be a challenge. Three of Chris' Swiss friends will also be joining us on this tour - I am looking forward to it!
I will keep everyone posted...